The Middle of Mississippi

Understanding why a state would establish its capital in its geographical center never quite made sense. North Carolina did this with Raleigh and South Carolina with Columbia. Though chosen for its practical real estate with elevated lands and stretches of road and waterways, Jackson, Mississippi needed time to see its popularity grow. Eventually years and years later, it became the most populated city in the state at a mere 600,000 residents.

And those residents take pride in the houses of past Jacksonians, enough that my day ended up going from a mansion to the House, to a house to eat, to an old house, to then be sent to another down the street.

The governor’s mansion, usually opened for visitors, remained closed for Christmas decorating, where no story about how far I came or charming conversation gained an exception. Oh well.

Next!

Down the street the Old State Capitol stood, centrally located with a number of roads leading directly to the property. Years after its abandonment by the government it went through a state of deterioration to then be heavily resorted and converted into a museum. It provided a solid start to my tour with the amount of displays, videos, and interactive exhibitions.

Though out of session, the existing capitol saw activity with wise ass security guards and talkative office people. I ascended the stairs to a rotunda flanked by the Senate and the House. Bright lights, marble surfaces, tile patterning, and window iron work reflected the Beaux Arts style of the building. Both wings remained open for the public with the government out of session and renovations underway in the Senate.

With all that capitol touring out of the way, old, everyday homes remained. My lunch provided the proper transition with a buffet at the Two Sister’s Kitchen, known for their home cooked Southern food and unique location, operating in an old, two-story downtown home. Saucy chicken, unidentified gruel, grits, fried things, and a biscuit filled my plate as I headed upstairs to be served a drink and dessert.

Fed and ready, the Oaks, the former home of the Boyd family, marked the first stop on the Jackson home tour. After signing in as the sole visitor for the day, Kathy, a restless soul held back by her age, began the tour. The introductory video summarized the family’s life and the house’s great fortunate that it did not burn under the inconsiderate actions of the North during the Civil War. Though years and years later, the history still stands, exemplified in the Confederate Battle flag, also known as the “union square” occupying the upper left hand corner of Mississippi’s state flag.

Old house, old news, and old furniture; my interest stood on the house’s modest nature and solid state of preservation. With the cold settling and the weather graying over, Kathy sent me over to the Manship house, formerly owned by a wood grainer. Yes, another old house, another movie, and another sole tour for this stop, however characteristics of Southern homes became more understandable. Standing feet over the ground, circulation under the house provided cooling, which paired with high ceiling, large windows, and a detached kitchen, reduced the South’s summer heat.

Detailed wall paper, dim lighting, rich coloring with maroon, navy, pine, and gold paired with eggshell, cream yellow, and sky blue set the tone. As a wood grainer, Mr. Manship painted cheaper woods to look more exotic with mahogany or walnut wood grain in addition to making surfaces resemble certain marbles. Over the course of ten years, Mr. Manship detailed his entire house with his work.

Back to the inn I trotted. Preparation for the last leg commenced as clothes soaked in the sink, postcards filled with words, and friends were dialed on the phone. It felt good to be in my home, well at least until it tomorrow morning.